Tools
The newest addition to this category is the Keku Scribe Tool. The rest were all written quite a few years ago.
Banding
Hot Air Edge Banding
Boring
Delta Boring Machine
Endbore Jig
Manual Drill Jigs
Cutting
Excalibur Sliding Table
Crosscut Sled
Flex32 Jig
Keku Scribe Tool
Glue-up fence
I do a lot of built up edges on applied ends, shelves, counters and toe-kicks. I came up with the glue-up fence to speed up/simplify the task. The glue-up fence is made from 2x2" angle iron. It has removable stops on the front edge to space the fence from the edge of the panel and holes in the face to mount the fence. The holes were designed to work with a Vix-bit and screws as well as 5mm pins.
Once the fence is screwed in place the stops are removed. While you could use clamps to hold the fence in place (and that's what I do for shelves where I don't want holes), its easier to do the glue-up with nothing in the way at the front of the fence. 
Since I was putting holes in the panels I decided to put them someplace useful. I decided on two rows of holes spaced 32mm apart. The primary row is 37mm from the front edge of the fence to match 32mm system holes. I use the system row to index the Modeez brackets that I use to mount my applied ends. The second row is 9.5mm (22.5 would also be useful) from the front of the fence and is used to mount the Modeez bracket in a horizontal position for applied ends that butt to the ceiling and toe-kick trim.
The fence stops set the fence back 21mm (19mm faces + 2mm bumpers) from the edge. If the applied end is made side panel depth plus 44mm (21 x 2), the fence can be used to drill the front and back Modeez mounting holes. After the panel is glued the banding thickness is ripped off the front edge (clean edge plus edgebanding = 21mm deep buildup). I use 6mm applied backs which leaves 15mm (21 - 6) for scribing the back edge to the wall. That's a bit generous but it simplifies things. You could also make a 1/4" panel sized template with 1/4" holes (for Vix-bit) where the Modeez mounting holes need to be.
[ comment | link | top ]
Air Cleaner
Not all air cleaners are the same. I would suggest you get one with a filter that has the largest surface area you can (afford). I also recommend a 3 stage filter. You can see what a days work does to my filter. Woodworkers Supply and Jesda Tools? (was CMT) have/had the only 3 stage filter I have seen. Mine is a JDS 2000 model 350 with a quick and dirty furnace filter for a 3rd stage. The furnace filter definitely makes a difference and is easy to clean with a vacuum. What is normally the first stage filter does get to a point where it doesn't fully clean with a vacuum and needs to be replaced. The last filter is also vacuumable and will last the longest (I haven't replaced it yet). The washable electrostatic filter might be worth considering.
...The electrostatic filter lets a lot more dust through than the stock 1st stage filter and I use it in place of the pictured furnace filter. The stock primary filter can be replaced with a pleated 12 x 24 x 1 furnace filter if you don't mind trimming the cardboard off the long edges.
[ comment | link | top ]